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Two Farmers…Red Cattle…and Horned Sheep

Red cattle grazing in a field at West Ilkerton Farm

I am, by nature, a bit of a loner - don't really 'do' groups, definitely don't suffer from FOMO, and generally like to go and explore on my own, discovering interesting places, learning and enlarging my knowledge across a diverse range of subjects which tweak my somewhat eclectic spectrum of interests. That said, on most of my mini-adventures, I very often end up having snippets of conversation with passing strangers - and quite often these snippets develop into full-blown, real conversations. Both levels of interaction are much appreciated and form part of the enjoyment of the day.

However, last summer I did join a group activity which was part of The Exmoor Nature Festival. The festival is a celebration of wildlife and wellbeing in the National Park, and one of the events was billed as 'A Gentle Farming and Wildlife Ramble', with the rider that it was ideal for non-competitive walkers. Ah ha! I thought. This is for me! And so, I signed up… and I was very glad that I did.

Located just a couple of miles inland from the North Devon coast, West Ilkerton Farm is accessed down very narrow, high-sided, single-track lanes leading to the head of a hidden valley. The farm forms part of a settlement which dates back to pre-Norman times, when it was owned by Alward (son of Toki) prior to 1066. The settlement is subsequently recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, by which time it had passed into the control of the King, with William de Goat noted as the Tenant-in-Chief. Interestingly, the value of the holding is recorded as £7 in 1086, indicating that it was a substantial property.

After a warm welcome from Victoria and Chris Eveleigh, who have farmed here for over 40 years, our group of six set off up the lane with Victoria. As we walked, she told us about the farm, whilst we looked out for wildflower species which we then identified as a group - sometimes with a little help from an app! Our walk took us through wildflower meadows and then up onto the Moor, where we heard about the history of farming on Exmoor, gorse control, heather regeneration and the importance of managing and farming these environments correctly.

The Eveleighs run a traditional family hill farm with local heritage breeds. They have been able to blend modern needs with traditional values and knowledge. Their daughter, Sarah, is a working partner in the business, and they have a beef herd of heritage Devon cattle (Red Rubies), a flock of pedigree Exmoor Horn sheep, plus Exmoor Mules (Exmoor Horn crossed with Bluefaced Leicester) and Scotch Blackface sheep, which are purebred but not registered.

In addition, they have a smallish herd of the famous Exmoor ponies, which are often put out to graze on the Moor. This is, of course, their natural habitat, where they roam freely, thriving on low-octane food and walking miles to find the best bits!

Like many farmers, the Eveleighs have diversified and, as well as now selling their meat directly to the public, they also run a series of farm tours, educational visits and networking days. They also offer - by arrangement - some rather lovely wild camping pitches.

Our walk back to the farm took us down an ancient hollow way which was beautiful and, to me, very atmospheric. I like to actually touch and feel the sides of these steep banks and soak up the whispers of the past as they filter through time. I think of the country people who have walked these paths before me, caring for their land, family and animals, working in all weathers, just cracking on and living their lives through good times and bad… so not much has changed there, then at West Ilkerton Farm!

Once back at the farm, we were transported by tractor and trailer up to a field opposite the farm for our BYO picnic lunch, which was lovely. We spotted some deer on the horizon and, as we passed one of the fields quite close to the farmhouse, we saw Victoria's three Exmoor mares, who were currently with the stallion. She likes to keep them off the Moor at this stage, as after weaning, the foals are easier to handle if they are used to people from the get-go.

One of the things that struck me throughout the day was just how passionate and grounded the Eveleighs are. Listening to the way both Chris and Victoria talk about their farm, their plans and their livestock left me in no doubt that they are immersed in their work and love their land. They work hard and are totally committed to the welfare of their animals throughout their lives. In so many ways, they are doing their very best for their little corner of the world.

Our day ended with a final cup of tea, whilst looking out across the fields towards the Moor, accompanied by the gentle sound of the Red Ruby cattle grazing quietly in the field close by.

This was certainly A Grand Day Out!

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*Exmoor Nature Festival takes place in May of each year and organised by the Exmoor National Park Authority. The festival is an annual event to celebrate the unique natural environment of Exmoor and showcase the impact that this special place has on physical and mental well-being. Here is a link to the ENPA website - worth checking out.

https://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/

*Victoria - who is known as 'Tortie' - in addition to being a hard-working farmer and a hard-working farmer's wife, is also a mother and grandmother and a published author. She also regularly writes article for local and national publications on a variety of Farming and Exmoor related topics. https://westilkerton.co.uk/